No matter what you do, however important it is, however much you may love it, if you don’t take a break occasionally, things get heavy – you can get worn down, burned out. This is a perspective I only acquired after moving to Europe, where holiday time is really valued, and over the years, I finally learned to value it as well.
This is all to say, that for the last two weeks, I haven’t watched a horror movie and I haven’t written a post (hooray for working ahead and automating postings) – I also haven’t taught any classes or proofread any texts (which is how I earn my pay) or had any rehearsals or shows (which is what I do for pleasure). I’ve been on a much needed and long looked forward to vacation. But I haven’t totally abandoned my responsibilities – as I’ve been gallivanting about, relaxing and playing tourist, I’ve managed to visit a few locations significant to the genre (thanks to my patient and generous wife who isn’t a horror fan, but was game to shape some of our vacation around it) and I have returned with a few photos worth sharing. I know, I know – looking at someone else’s vacation photos can be pretty dull, but I think you might like these. So, without further ado, here is my “horror holiday.”
Orava Castle (Slovakia)
I’ve been living in Kraków in southern Poland since 2008, and I just recently learned that the castle used for Murnau’s Nosferatu is only about a 2.5 hour drive away, so we started our trip there. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to catch a shot of the film’s most iconic view of the castle as it was only visible from the winding road and there was no safe place to pull over and take a picture, but it was really exciting to come around the bend and get to see it – lots of pointing and going “ooh, ooh, ooh!”
And the castle itself is really worth checking out if you’re ever in the neighborhood. It’s up on some craggy rocks and consists of many levels, climbing the cliff face. Ascending the many steep staircases, I really felt sorry for Murnau’s crew, lugging heavy 20s film equipment up all those steps. There are cavernous tunnels when you first enter, which do feel appropriate for the film, and the castle itself is really quite pretty and impressive: interestingly stratified, surrounded by forests, and topped with wooden shingles.
Plus, I got this fun fridge magnet.
Graz (Austria)
Ok, this is rather a stretch, to be fair. Really I just went to Graz because I’ve driven though it on the highway many times on the way to other places and heard it was pretty (plus, I’m tickled by its highway signs, such as “Graz to meet you!” and “Graz you later” (imagine them voiced by a bad Arnold Schwarzenegger impersonator) – what’s not to love?). BUT Styria (the state that Graz is in) is where Le Fanu’s Carmilla is set (which came up again and again in my recent posts on Lesbian Vampire movies), and General Spielsdorf at one point relates how a more experienced doctor was sent for from Graz to treat his ward for her affliction (this doctor was sadly unsuccessful at treating being-bitten-by-a-vampire). So the city isn’t really connected to the book or its many adaptations, but it is lovely and it can give some flavor to inform the imagination when reading Le Fanu. I found this hilltop garden beneath the city’s clock tower to have a kind of Carmilla vibe.
The Tomb of Dante Alighieri (Ravenna, Italy)
Most of the vacation, we were driving around Italy, and while we went to Ravenna to see the 5th and 6th century Byzantine mosaics, when I realized it also featured Dante’s tomb, I thought that could be worth a visit. It’s a tomb. I guess Dante’s in there. Ok, it’s not that much to look at really, but I figure that though he was not a “horror author,” per se, the amount of time he spent detailing the horrors of the underworld with great creativity and vividness qualifies him for inclusion. Plus, it’s kind of striking that Inferno is really the only thing people ever talk about – when’s the last time you heard Dante’s Purgatorio or Paradiso referenced? I remember reading and enjoying Inferno in high school and I think for pretty much everyone, wading through the endless, poetically apt tortures of the unjust is just more fun than whatever he gets up to in Paradise. Maybe he shot himself in the literary foot by starting his trilogy with what was ironically the most enjoyable part.
Villa Adriana (Tivoli, Italy)
Now, this was special on a number of levels. We chose it as it’s where the exteriors for Vadim’s Blood and Roses (which I wrote about here) were filmed, and it was certainly cool to find locations from the film, but it’s also just a really impressive site from antiquity (from the 2nd century AD) which is worth seeing in its own right. Furthermore, while it is only a half hour’s drive from Rome, it is rather off the beaten path and it’s rare to find a site like this that isn’t swarming with other tourists.
It’s a pleasure to so peacefully explore its vast grounds, with extensive ruins of a massive villa built as a pleasant retreat for the emperor.
More significantly for the purposes of this blog, it’s just so rewarding to find the gorgeous locations used in Vadim’s rich, sensual film and be able to take in their charm and atmosphere without the hubbub of a thousand other people around you.
It’s easy to visualize Carmilla/Mircalla floating through the olive groves or chasing after a peasant girl. The reflecting pool is still intact, if a bit murky, and the wall to the estate is easily identifiable, but I couldn’t figure out which ruins exactly had served as the tomb. Anyway, it is a beautiful place which can still evoke the atmosphere of the film. If you ever visit Rome by car, it’s really worth the detour.
Villa Sciarra (Rome, Italy)
Tucked away in a small city park in a residential neighborhood of Rome is the building and garden used for exteriors of the fashion house in Bava’s Blood and Black Lace. It can be a little bit of a hike to get to (especially if you make the same series of wrong turns that we did and go the long way round, on a really hot, sunny day, up lots of stairs, lacking water), but when you arrive, it is a peaceful, pleasant little park and if you’re a fan of the film, the fountain is just iconic.
Interestingly, the park is also filled with statues of chases (satyrs and such trying to catch one comely lass or another) which feels appropriate for Bava’s early, gory, and ever so stylish body count film. I recommend it, but if you ever think you might go, message me and I’ll walk you through the route not to take.
Capuchin Crypt (Rome, Italy)
There is no connection to any film here, but ye gods, what a creepy, creepy place. So this is a “skull chapel,” a site sometimes found in monasteries, where bones and skulls have been artfully arranged to create contemplative sites in which to meditate on mortality, to be confronted with death and thus be compelled to better consider life’s choices.
Now, I’ve seen a couple of these before and while it is morbid how they are filled with bones, they tend to be pretty solemn, serious places. This was different. A combination of something from Bryan Fuller’s Hannibal and the scene in Alan Parker’s The Wall where Pink has gone mad in his hotel room, obsessively arranging trash, matchbooks and drugs into mandalas on the floor before shaving off his eyebrows and his nipples, this felt like the compulsive, whimsical, insane, driven work of a crazy person, toiling away in these rooms with a big bag of baby rib cages, making his art.
Sadly, you’re not allowed to take photos, so I’m sharing some images collected online, but take my word for it: it’s a crazy, artful, creepy place (and it may not be for everyone – even if you appreciate pretty dark stuff, it can be disturbing seeing such peculiar work done with actual remnants of (a lot of) dead bodies).
Profondo Rosso (Rome, Italy)
This was one location that I couldn’t possibly skip. In fact, when we first arrived, it was closed due to holidays and we had to reschedule the second half of our trip to return to Rome for it later. Co-owned by Dario Argento (and named after one of his best flicks) and Luigi Cozzi (of Contagion and Paganini Horror), who is usually behind the counter, this tiny neighborhood book shop is a real Mecca of horror not to be missed by any fan. Ok, most of the books (and so many look really interesting) are in Italian, so if you can’t read Italian, you’ll be stuck just looking at the pictures, but there was a small selection in English too (I picked up one retrospective of Giallo films and another on Lucio Fulci) and a nice collection of t-shirts, magnets, tote bags and records (all of which I also dropped some euros on).
Past that, the store is filled to the rafters with old film posters and also a bunch of rubber masks, greasepaint, and monster costumes such as you might find at a Spirit Halloween store. I don’t know how much they move the rubber masks, but their inclusion somehow adds to the store’s charm.
Furthermore, in the basement, for a well-spent 5 euros, you can check out a small, bizarre, kind of informative, kind of hokey, thoroughly lovable museum, featuring some props from films that Argento directed and/or produced (e.g., Demoni). It’s got a kind of house of wax / spookhouse vibe, and features narration taking you through some description of the different tableaus on offer. There are some specific props that are fun to see, but mainly, it’s just a really lovely, sweet, somewhat grotty experience. These little leftovers are so obviously treasured by the proprietors and the guests, and that lends it all a kind of magic.
The Haunting of Night Vale (Prague, Czechia)
This was something a little different, and a delightful way to cap off the trip. On the way back to Poland, we made a detour towards Prague to catch The Haunting of Night Vale, a live performance of the Welcome to Night Vale podcast, currently touring Europe. I went to college with Cecil (the voice of Night Vale and also the co-host of Random Number Generator Horror Podcast No 9, which I recently had the pleasure of guesting on) and was so happy to get to visit with him briefly and see the show.
If you’re a listener of the podcast (which takes the form of a local public radio events calendar for a small town where everything is spooky and weird), it is an absolute treat to see the live performance. Just witnessing the animation and character of it all is a great pleasure, and everyone involved is doing great work. And if you’re not a regular listener, it doesn’t matter – you’ll be able to appreciate the story of “a house being haunted before it’s been built” all the same. As far as horror content goes, this is not a horror piece, so much as it trades in horror elements for comic, literary, and emotional effect. They’re still touring a while longer, so if you’re in one of their upcoming cities, I really recommend checking it out.
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And so, that is that. No movies, but I think following the star of horror led me to some really wonderful little experiences along the way on this trip (also, we didn’t only do horror stuff – there was plenty of time for Etruscan ruins, lovely hilltop towns, and endless wine and good food). I hope wherever you are, you get some chance to take a break and catch your breath. But now, back to work with me…
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Also, this post is going up on this blog’s one year anniversary. One year and 71 posts in, I’m feeling pretty good about what I’ve done so far and some plans I have for the future. I think occasionally I’ve managed to corral my thoughts into shape and it’s an honor that anyone at all would choose to read them. Whoever you are, thank you for lending me your attention for a bit. I hope you find something among these pages to be of value.